The first thing I can’t live without would have to be my love of surfing. Some people might say I don’t surf as often as I used to, but that’s because I had to get a job and grow up: Over-rated, if you ask me. I started surfing about 4 years ago. It’s the best thing I’ve started in my life. When I moved away from Johannesburg, my dad said I should start surfing. At that time I was only 6.
I do regret that decision not to - wish I had started then. I would be shredding it now (ha-ha). I still remember the first time I surfed, as clear as day. One of the best moments of my life was getting into that sea and taking it all in, trying to stand up and bailing and laughing with all my friends. (We all went together the first time) It was a very funny day, trust me!
There were times when we came so close to standing and jumping up with joy. The first time I stood, It felt like I was on top of the world - best feeling ever! As you get better you feel like "Yes- I've got this!" Of course there are still times when I bail, I mean who doesn't, except for like Dane Reynolds, Kelly Slater? (Kidding).
As you get better you try doing tricks. That was the funniest part for me and I'm still working on those. I can’t wait for that for that day that I get the perfect barrel inside the wave. feeling the water through my fingers. It’s going to be amazing!
There’s just something about being in the open ocean. Just you, the sea and your board. No worries in the world, an open mind. Time to relax and breathe in the fresh air, and just have a few moments to yourself. There’s a lot more that I can write on surfing and how incredibly awesome and mind blowing it is, but then we would be here all day.
Hope you enjoyed this post and I strongly suggest if you haven’t tried surfing that you do it at least once in your life, its SICK (really awesome)!